Romania Factbook 2000
World Leather Market
 
Leather Manufacture & sourcing For Garments, Footwear and Leather Goods producers
 
Tata International - World supplier of Finished Leather and Leather products
Oxalaga for Finished Leather and Quality Footwear
 

The Leather Global Value Chain
&
The World Leather footwear market


Introduction

Evolution of the Leather Value Chain

Footwear Industry in Central and Eastern Europe

Components of the Value chain

Global distribution of Footwear production

The role of Developing Countries in the value chain

Policies & References

Association of Romanian Leather and Footwear Manufacturers

Leather sourcing for Footwear - Garments & Accessories
 

 

The role of Developing Countries in the value chain

Upgrading and Earning Opportunities in Export Manufacturing

Upgrading should be understood in the context of this paper as moving to activities, which offer higher returns. Higher returns can be obtained either by shifting production towards higher priced products or by acquiring new functions in the value chain such as participating in design and marketing. Gereffi (1999) defines and differentiates industrial upgrading as a process of improving the ability of a firm to more profitable and /or technologically sophisticated and capital-intensive economic niches and lists four levels of upgrading. Gerefii’s discussion refers to the apparel commodity chain, but we believe it is also applicable to the footwear chain.

Table - Industrial Upgrading

Level

Description

1. Within factories

Moving from cheap to expensive items. From simple to complex products and from small to large orders

2. Within inter -firm enterprise networks

Moving from mass production of standardised products to the flexible production of differentiated merchandise

3. Within local or national economies

Moving from simple assembly of imported inputs to more integrated forms of OEM and OBM production, having more forward and backward linkages at the local or national level.

4. Within regions (Supply Chain)

Shifting from bilateral, asymmetrical, interregional trade flows to a more fully developed intra-regional division of labour, incorporating all phases of the commodity chain from the supply of raw material through production, distribution and consumption

Source: G.Gereffi, “International Trade and Upgrading in the Apparel Commodity Chain”, Journal of International Economics 48 (1999) 37-70.

The opportunities for upgrading depend on the quality of information that is provided to the manufacturer, and as a consequence the type and amount of learning that the local producer receives from the marketers. In the simplest form of outsourcing, the information received by the local producer is relevant only to the production segment of the commodity chain where he is placed.

But marketers and retailers need also to upgrade their suppliers, they need producers with the capability to find all the parts needed for the finished product. That means that they require more advanced, “Full Package” or OEM companies. These companies may sub-contract production of parts with local firms to fulfill orders. OEM companies learn then how to organize production networks and about the marketing aspects of the business. It is this learning that permits Asian suppliers to move from OEM to OBM. East Asian Newly Industrializing Economies (NIEs) are usually considered the models of upgrading among developing countries. OEM and OBM companies are discussed in the forthcoming section.

Upgrading to OEM (original equipment manufacturing) and OBM (original brand manufacturing).

Gereffi (1999) indicates that the success of East Asia's buyer-driven chains can be explained by their upgrading, moving up in the chain from stage one, assembling of imported inputs to more locally integrated manufacturing activities to export with higher value added: OEM and OBM. In OEM manufacturing producers must have the capability to find all the components needed for the finished product. These are called “Full Package” or OEM companies that subcontract the production of parts with local firms to be able to comply with orders in time and quantities.

Gereffi highlights the advantages that OEM export role in upgrading as follows: -

  • “It enhances the ability of local entrepreneurs to learn the preferences of foreign buyers, including international standards for the price, quality and delivery of export merchandise.
  • It also generates substantial backward linkages in the domestic economy because OEM contractors are expected to develop reliable sources of supply for many inputs
  • Expertise in OEM production increases over time and it spreads across different types of activities.
  • The OEM supplier learns much about the downstream and upstream segments of the apparel commodity chain from the buyer”. ´

Mechanisms that make possible the upgrading of firms to full package supply are very much related to the ability of producers to connect with diverse firms that operate in buyer-driven chains. The best opportunities for upgrading may be found in quality-driven market segments where there is a low concentration of buyers operating. OBM or original brand manufacturing is then an upgrade from OEM undertaken by OEM operators, as a strategy to be able to compete with production coming from lower-cost exporters from other developing regions. The OEM manufacturers become OBM manufacturers by establishing forward linkages to developed country markets where the largest profits are made in the buyer- driven commodity chains. The original OEM combines its production with the design and sale of their own brand names and turns into an OBM operator. This has been the case for Japanese firms and for some companies in the NIES managing their OBM operations for export, and local markets and for some firms belonging to the Sinos Valley footwear cluster in Brazil.

Triangle manufacturing

Triangle manufacturing is the mechanism used by countries operating in buyer-driven commodity chains for three purposes:

1.      to deal with the competition from lower-cost suppliers and

2.      to move from declining sectors into higher value added activities;

3.      to facilitate geographical expansion of their operations.

Triangle manufacturing is considered as one of the most important adjustment mechanisms for maturing export industries in East Asia. It is a combined operation in which the agent acts as a manufacturer, a purchaser and a subcontractor to third parties. Gereffi (1995) describes the mechanism, for the case of garments, in the following manner: US. buyers place their orders with the NIC manufacturers from whom they have sourced in the past (e.g., Hong Kong, Taiwanese, or Korean apparel firms), who in turn shift some or all of the requested production to affiliated offshore factories in low -wage countries (e.g., China, Indonesia, or Guatemala). These offshore factories may or may not have equity investments by the EANIC manufacturers; they can be wholly owned subsidiaries, joint-venture partners, or independent overseas contractors. The triangle is completed when the finished goods are shipped directly to the overseas buyer under the U.S. import quotas issued to the exporting nation”. Examples are Hong Kong and Taiwan footwear manufacture’s massive investments in China.

Gereffi observes that triangle manufacturing changes the role of NIEC manufacturers from established suppliers for US retailers and marketers to middlemen in buyer-driven commodity chains that can include as many as 50-60 exporting countries(Gereffi 1999).

Triangle manufacturing has important implications for developing countries for in the globalised economy exporters have shorter periods in which to exploit their competitive advantages. In footwear, for example, while an export industry took more than 20 years to develop in Japan and about 15 years in Taiwan and South Korea, China's footwear sector did it in less than 10 years (Gereffi 1995). Competition grows fast in regions and in the world, demand fluctuates and export possibilities for developing countries face the problems of “boom-and-bust". Product life cycles are shortened phases of economic growth tied to fluctuating external demand and intense regional competition.

 


Factors Shortening Product Life Cycles for Countries Pursuing Export-oriented Industrialization (applicable to footwear manufacturing)
  • Rapid technological innovation;
  • The growing number of buying seasons for fashion goods;
  • The proliferation of new models of popular consumer products;
  • The spread of developing countries manufacturing capabilities;
  • The speed with which developed countries impose tariffs, quotas, and other import restrictions on successful export manufacturing countries

Source: Gereffi 1995.

Upgrading from triangle manufacturing to OBM also takes place and it occurs as a reaction against the large differences in profits that the U.S. retailers and manufacturer –merchandisers realize when compared to the profits made by their developing countries business partner.

This is the case of selling a line of shoes to Payless Shoes owned by May Department Stores, which is the largest U.S. importer of footwear.

The case of Hong Kong included in the following box illustrates in practical terms many of the operational mechanisms used for participating in the footwear global value chain that have been discussed in this paper.

Hong Kong Operations in the Global Footwear Value Chain

Hong Kong is a large exporter of a great variety of footwear products. A large proportion of shoes exported from Hong Kong are manufactured in China and re-exported.

Participating in the Value Chain

Most of the mechanisms used in the world for participating in the global footwear value chain, discussed in preceding sections are found in operation in Hong Kong.

1.      Manufacturers of footwear sell directly to overseas importers/wholesalers, or to direct buying offices (i.e. JC Penny, Sears, Macys, Wal-Mart and Kmart).

2.      A large number of firms produces under the private labels of department stores, boutiques, shoe retail chains and mail order houses in North America and Western Europe.

3.      Local trading firms or Taiwanese companies export directly, mainly to USA markets.

4.      Trading firms source from China and re-export through their offices in Hong Kong.

5.      Hong Kong companies (many with Taiwanese investment) produce, export and distribute internationally well-known brands under contract. (Bass, Clarks, Fred Perry, Avia, Converse, Adidas, Nike, L A Gear, Reebok and others).

6.      Some companies are operating under licenses to produce and distribute foreign brands in the Chinese and Hong Kong’s markets.

Recent Developments

Over 80% of local manufacturers have shifted a significant part of their production to China, leaving only a limited capacity in Hong Kong for meeting urgent or small orders. In addition, many of them have invested substantially in expanding production lines in China. Some of the Chinese plants are now capable of producing up to one million pairs of shoes per year.

New market opportunities emerge amid the industry's restructuring. While plastic/rubber and textile footwear continues to occupy a large share in overall exports, higher value-added footwear, such as ladies' leather dress shoes, has gradually gained an increasingly important share. For this segment of the market Hong Kong manufacturers have strengthen quality assurance methodologies and adopted stylish designs, following closely the latest fashion trends. Taiwan is another major foreign investor in China. At present over 90% of Taiwan's footwear factories (more than 1,000 companies) have set up plants in China, especially in Fujian. With the support of a strong plastic industry and technology research on footwear-manufacturing at home, Taiwan has a strong position for producing rubber and man-made leather shoes.

The cooperation between Hong Kong, Taiwan and China is considered a most efficient combination of resources for further market expansion. Because of its excellent access to information on international markets including the latest market trends on product development, sourcing of supplies and arrangement of delivery and payments, Hong Kong plays an important role in managing production and quality of Chinese footwear operations. Hong Kong provides the technical know-how and the development of marketing contacts overseas, Taiwan the capital and the Chinese counterpart does not only provide workers and facilities to establish production lines, but also the necessary linkages to serve the Chinese domestic markets. The recently introduced European Union-wide quota on footwear of China origin is a major concern of Hong Kong footwear manufacturers selling to the EU. While nearly all types of sports shoes and indoor footwear have been restricted, 'high-tech' trainer type shoes with a CIF price per pair of not less than 12 ECUs (HK$105) are excluded from import quotas.

Source: www.comapny.com/hkencyc/hkepage1.htm, January 2001.

Governance of Value Chains

Governance in buyer’s value chains has been defined by Kaplinsky (2000) as “the coordinating role with respect to logistics, the integration of components into a design of the final products and the quality standards with which the integration is achieved”. The same author identifies three forms of governance as necessary to be applied when a country enters a supply global value chain:

  1. Legislative, to define conditions of participation.
  2. Judicial governance, to audit and review the performance and compliance with set rules and
  3. Executive, to assist value chain participants in complying with the conditions set in 1. and in 2.

Examples given in the following table illustrate how different factors; internal and external to the chain are involved in the governance of the same chain.

Policies presented in the forthcoming section of this paper correspond to different categories of governance to be implemented by specific factors participating in the chain.


Table - Examples of Governance in a Global Value Chain

Governance

Exercised by parties internal to the chain

Exercised by parties external to the chain

Legislative Governance

Setting standards for suppliers, quality, times, frequencies

Setting environmental standards

Setting child labour standards

Judicial governance

Monitoring suppliers’ performance

Monitoring environmental and

labour standards (government, NGOs).

Specialised firms monitoring

compliance with ISO standards

Executive Governance

Supply chain management assisting

suppliers to meet agreed standards

Producers associations assisting

members to meet agreed standards

Specialised service providers

Industrial policies support from the government

Source: Kaplinsky 2000

 

Implementing Dispersed Manufacturing -The Management of Supply Chains Hong Kong Style

The management of supply chains is exercised by export trading companies to implement what has been called “dispersed manufacturing”. J. Magretta describes the strategy and mechanisms used through an interview with Victor Fung chairman of Li&Fung, a pioneer in “dispersed manufacturing”.

The chain described by Magretta and Fung corresponds to apparel manufacturing, but is briefly described in this paper to illustrate supply chain management, “Hong Kong style”, that may be at present in use in a similar manner in the footwear value chain.

In disperse manufacturing Li and Fung (L&F) perform the higher value added tasks such as design, and engineering production and quality control in Hong Kong and outsource the lower value added tasks to the best possible locations in the world. L&F strategy includes the sourcing of raw materials and components, the management of its suppliers and the flow of parts in order to comply with customers precise demands in the minimum time, rationalising handling operations and reducing operational costs by dissecting the value chain. The lower value added middle stages are organized through an L&F , network that comprises 7,500 suppliers, 2500 of which may be active at one time.

Figure - Supply Chain Management

 

Source: J. Magretta 2000

 

 

 


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