Romania Factbook 2000
World Leather Market
 
Leather Manufacture & sourcing For Garments, Footwear and Leather Goods producers
 
Tata International - World supplier of Finished Leather and Leather products
Oxalaga for Finished Leather and Quality Footwear
 

The Leather Global Value Chain
&
The World Leather footwear market


Introduction

Evolution of the Leather Value Chain

Footwear Industry in Central and Eastern Europe

Components of the Value chain

Global distribution of Footwear production

The role of Developing Countries in the value chain

Policies & References

Association of Romanian Leather and Footwear Manufacturers

Leather sourcing for Footwear - Garments & Accessories

 

Policies and Strategies to Enhance the Entry of Local Firms and their upgrading within the Value Chain

 Managing information and monitoring

Governments, producers associations and planners should establish and permanently use information networks for the leather, footwear and other leather products value chain for monitoring external and internal developments and performance and for quick, and informed decision making. The above statement agrees with a recent view that predicts that the only sustainable competitive advantage in the next ten years, would be the ability to “learn faster than your competitors” and indicates that in an economy of constant change, what is crucial is to “be aware of the big picture and finding ways to play a role in it” Dalla Colletta 2000.

Government assistance

Governments have a number of roles to play in assisting producers, particularly small producers:

  1. Inform and assist the private sector and workers organizations to understand opportunities and threats posed by their participation in leather global value chains.
  2. Assist producers to enter the chains and to reposition themselves in the chain by improving their capabilities in areas such as design, marketing and negotiating abilities for the establishment and strengthening of internal and external links.
  3. Improve access to productive capital, trained human resources and promote the use of trade policy rents (Kaplinsky).
Environmental and social management

The Leather industry commodity chain will need to apply acceptable environmental and social strategies and programmes. Their participants will be required to develop and apply benchmarking, social mapping of labour conditions and practices prevailing in factories and workshops around the world in order to comply with the expected demands from society concerning pollution prevention, safe use of chemicals and working conditions. Industry associations and industrial development support institutions should undertake this work 31.

Standards, measures and quality specifications

The lack of harmonized standards and measures among firms in industrial districts is a common constraint to reaching higher levels of division of labour, competitiveness and cluster growth in developing countries. The lack of them increases transaction costs and requires the use of specialized firms for certain jobs that could be performed internally within the firms. This constraint was found in empirical work conducted by Rabellotti in two Mexican footwear-manufacturing districts. Although, locally there was total agreement on the need for the harmonization of norms and measurement systems it was acknowledged that harmonization is a huge task which requires the participation from many institutions and the industry itself and in which international technical assistance would probably be required.

Transnational companies TNCs, global chains

In the global economy TNCs regional and global strategies predominate. A challenge for developing countries governments is to control the production potential of the TNCs and in doing so, learning how to link with the global economy. Buyer -driven commodity chains, give interesting opportunities for learning, providing that local economic policies, particularly those related to local capital markets promote and not hinder upgrading from the conventional stages of manufacturing described in this paper. Local industry and associations should be better prepared for participating in the different modalities of global chains. Negotiations with agents should be conducted under informed conditions i.e. updated information on global markets, language and contract negotiating abilities.

Competitiveness

More investment should be made for product development and marketing to improve competitiveness. The concentration on core competencies, promoted by the current managing doctrine does not facilitate the entry of manufacturers in overseas markets. Producers in developing countries that have not focused only on overseas markets have developed their own designs and have captured markets in neighbouring countries.

The integration of buyers into technical assistance projects of donor agencies to improve competitiveness of the different components of the chain should be promoted. An integrated programme to address most of the constraints found in the leather commodity chain in 10 African countries has been carried out by UNIDO in cooperation with donor agencies, local associations and buyers since 1989. .

An SME becomes Competitive and enters the Global Value Chain by Introducing Technical and Managerial Skills within a “Stretch Strategy”

This is the case of RAS Dashen Shoe Factory in Addis Ababa. This company was founded in 1986 producing 50 pairs of shoes per day. It expanded in 1991 into new premises produces 1000 pairs per day of cement lasted shoes and up to 1,500 of hand stitched moccasins. Assistance provided by UNIDO comprised product development, plant layout, the introduction of standard production methods and manuals, selection of equipment and skill upgrading. Additionally the firm participated in an international fair (GDS). Investment in additional equipment was of the order of US$ 50,000.

Training promoted the use of new technical and managerial skills to improve production flow, consistency in quality and in levels of production. The additional equipment purchased increased production capacity and improved product quality. Participation in a trade fair provided the entrepreneur with the opportunity to learn about and understand export and prospects. The company has been able to sustain itself, become competitive and enter the export market in Europe and the Middle East.

During the period 1995-98 the firm received orders and produced 40,000 pairs of shoes for export with a value of US$500,000. Shoe soles were also exported. To cope with additional demand the firm has built and extension and increased its capacity.

The firm participates in the G.D.S Fair in Düsseldorf and offers flexible production with short lead times, low minimum order quantities, competing prices and the advantage of being much closer to Europe than the Far East.

The “stretch strategy” refers to promoting technical and managerial improvements with very low levels of investment.


Improving Competitiveness of the Leather Commodity Chain in 10 Eastern and Southern African Countries

Results

  1. Improvements in the collection of hides and skin's: An increase of 104,000 cattle hides and 73,000 goatskins in the target areas during 1992-93 worth US$ 1,7000,000.

  2. Improvements in the quality of hides and skins in target areas equivalent to US 630,000 per year.

  3. Establishment of "Revolving Fund”34 operations in all countries to provide technical assistance to private industries operating in different components of the sector.

  4. National leather Associations operating in all countries, active partners to UNIDO, involved in the management of the programme, responsible for further developments of the LLPIS.

  5. ESALIA, Eastern and Southern African leather Industry Association in operation. The regional association, that covers nine countries is involved in the management of the programme and cooperates with international leather products associations in the management of cooperation projects. Its existence and dynamic functioning is a key to the sustain ability of the programme at the regional level.

  6. Creation of a pool of trained human resources, 1,000 artisan workers, 550 extension officers and a cross section of workers operating in the industrial component of the leather industries system. (LLPIS) 1,000 operators, supervisors, and managers.

  7. Rehabilitation of 30 tanneries, the establishment of 17 effluent treatment plants, the rehabilitation of 30 footwear manufacturing plants and leather production units and the establishment of Training and Production Centres for the Shoe Industry (TPCSI) in Kenya and Zimbabwe. Strengthening of existing sectoral institutions such as LDC/KIRDI, Kenya, LIZ, Zimbabwe.

  8. Training in marketing and market awareness activities shortened the path to the export market to 10 tanneries (for the export of leather) and 10 shoe manufacturers.

 

Innovation

There is a considerable margin for developing and applying local innovations to the management of buyer-driven chains as well as for the application of OEM and OBM export mechanisms. Adaptive and organizational innovations have been instrumental in the growth of export- oriented garments and footwear industries in East Asian countries. Further analysis of those innovations, the policy context in which they were applied and their applicability to improve competitiveness in other regions of the developing world seems to be appropriate.

Support systems for investment and innovation

The development of any industrial sector relies on the proper functioning of what has have been called the National System of Innovation (NSI). The following Box illustrates the Ethiopian NSI under operation and gives examples of interactions among the main actors of the system and some of the operational difficulties found, the solutions suggested and or implemented.

Box - Support Systems for Investment and Innovation (the case of Ethiopia)

Component/actor Hides and skins:

Interaction

There are missing linkages between the Ministry of Agriculture, the Quality Standards authority and between the tanners and the Ethiopian Environment Standards to guarantee the purchasing of hides and skins on the bases of quality/grade, promote expansion of infrastructure, train extension officers, collectors, traders and agents involved in the preservation of raw materials.

Industry and Trade

The Ministry of Industry and Trade (MOT) and its agency, the Ethiopian Investment Authority (EIA) have implemented extensive investment liberalization programmes since 1992 that include: the removal of restrictions regarding private investment; removal of the authority established to control prices; reform and liberalization of the exchanges system; liberalization of imports; reduction of custom duties which has resulted in a major integration in the international trade system. The above measures require continuous interaction and strong coordination between actors to make them operational.

The Ethiopian Tanners Association

ETA established as a centre to focus on quality standards, environment, training, trade and a delegate of tanneries. At present acts as a lobbying organization for tanners more than a provider of services.

The Quality and Standards Authority in Ethiopia

There are two mandatory standards which deal with leather products, for raw hides and skins and the leather standards. The implementation of the raw hides and skins standards are delegated to the ministry of Agriculture. The authority provides quality control services. Field inspection and sample collection are understaffed.

The newly established Leather an Leather

Products Training Development Institute

(LLPTDI) Its main roles are training, R&D for improving quality, physical testing services to tanneries and shoe factories, provision of updated information

A centralised authority for the development of hides

and skins has been established to promote

coordination and marketing of raw material.

Industry and Trade

Interaction among actors MOTI, EIA ETA is strong

and well coordinated. A Trade Point has been

established in the Prime Minister’s Office with MOTI

and MOTI has supported the establishment of the

LLPTDI to eliminate a major problem, the lack of

qualified manpower.

The Ethiopian Tanners Association

The tanners association needs to represent the whole industry and not only tanners, promoting the integration of all components of the chain geared towards exports and should cooperate with international organiations such as COTANCE and UNIC.

Quality Standards

Buyers and suppliers do not utilized efficiently the standards due to: limited knowledge of these; poor skills, lack of experience and common criteria used by selectors; limited supervision and facilities. The correct application of standards is essential for promoting exports. It is necessary to review, modernise and simplify present raw hides and skins and finished leather products standards.

LLPTDI. Great expectations have been created. The challenge is how to link with the private sector and other established institution and how to secure the participation of industry as partners and supporters.

 

Clusters and districts

Local government policies should promote multilateral cooperation in industrial districts to form vertical alliances to face globalization. Government agencies should be prepared to mediate between large enterprises and associations operating in industrial clusters in the process of establishing vertical alliances ( the case of Sinos Valley).

Artisan clusters in the developing world are often not industrial clusters but an agglomeration of independent artisan firms that lack cohesion, the provision of good quality premises, infrastructure, training and business services.

If industrial footwear manufacturing clusters are to be promoted from artisan clusters, it is necessary that the following three conditions be present:

  1. Division of tasks between firms and the supply of specialized services;
  2. The need to consolidate the cluster as a “centre of knowledge creation, inventiveness, entrepreneurial capability”37 within a given product line;
  3. A collection of institutions of different types interacting within the cluster 38 that provide needed services to their members / clients and facilitate trust in collective representation of the industrial group.

Policy actions at the micro level within clusters should seek the development of the firms' capability to cooperate and exploit advantages from clustering, recognizing that firms differ in their capacity to interact with other economic agents. Rabellotti describes several initiatives that had been promoted in clusters in Italy and Mexico focused on increasing the cohesion within the districts, by creating occasions for meetings, for exchanges of information and for developing common strategies.

Business associations

Business associations can have a function in promoting local cooperation and with it industrial upgrading, in industrial clusters. Results from three case studies on footwear industrial clusters in India, Mexico and Brazil indicate that the pressure of the new global competition,40 including trade liberalization, has increased cooperation through the business associations and a greater use of some of the services provided by them. The case studies also provided evidence of a positive relationship between the performance of firms and their relationships with business associations; particularly evident was the case of Guadalajara, Mexico in which regression analysis showed that cooperation through the business association was the most significant factor associated with firm performance. (Nadvi 1999).

In the face of the new competition not only firms need to upgrade but also local associations need upgrading.

  • Increase and refine the delivery of appropriate producer services to effectively lower the costs of local firms.
  • Articulate concerns of the cluster to the state in a more effective manner
  • Identify and promote mechanisms of state intervention to strategically assist the cluster
  • Search ways and means to play a more active role in providing effective coordination within the cluster and with agents external to the cluster (Nadvi 99).

The role of government would be at the local and national levels implement policies to facilitate the development of activities of local associations, mechanisms to improve coordination between associations and the state and provide support when required.

A Regional Association Upgrades the Leather Commodity Chain in AFRICA

ESALIA, the Eastern and Southern Africa Leather Industry Association was created in 1995 to promote the interests of the regional Leather, Footwear and Leather Products Industry in nine countries of the region. Members of the regional association are the national leather industrial associations of those countries that represent the leather industry including leather manufacturers, the tanning sector, footwear manufacturers and allied industries.

The main purpose of ESALIA is to coordinate regional efforts to upgrade the leather commodity chain in all its components, from the recovery and handling of raw materials through marketing of leather and leather end products.

Its activities include the regional management of activities within the UNIDO-ESALIA regional leather programme, assist in pollution control, and coordinate training, the promotion of rehabilitation, standards, marketing, information, policy advice and sourcing trade finance. The regional association has established cooperation activities with equivalent associations regional, national and international institutions such as COTANCE, UNIC, CDT, ITC, and CFC.

The capability of ESALIA to function and negotiate on behalf of the regional leather industries is illustrated by a recent contract signed in 1999 between ESALIA and the Common Fund of Commodities, CFC, for US $1.4 million with the purpose of introducing a common leather grading systems in Kenya, Ethiopia, Tanzania and Zambia. ESALIA in turn is subcontracting technical assistance with UNIDO for carrying out raw hides and skins grading extension services.


Policies in India promote Growth and Enhancement in Value -added Leather Processing

Government policies enacted and implemented from 1973 to 1993 have been credited for the transformation of the leather industry from a “somnolent industry into a vibrant export thrust”. In 1973, 75% of exports from the industry consisted of raw and semi-processed hides and in 1994, 82% of total leather consisted of finished leather, finished leather products and footwear components.

Policies included the creation of an “export thrust status” as a strategy for the leather industry, and lowering import duties of raw materials, concessional duty on imported machinery and chemicals and easy approval of joint ventures for introducing cleaner technologies. Remarkable has been the continuity in maintaining the “export thrust status” and related policies even during the liberalization of the economy during the period 1991-92.

Determinants of success additional to the availability of raw materials, competitive wages and technical knowledge, are:

A clear strategy for the development of an export industry: an institutional network linking industry, research and government; an agency connecting exporters and buyers; a forward looking management concept applied by industry; industrial support to education, training, research and development; environmental auditing and the introduction of cleaner technology; improvement of quality standards and the development of brands.

The Indian experience in climbing the leather value chain has been considered as the result of an intelligent, integrated, private sector-government response to liberal globalization in a priority agro-industrial sub-sector.


 

 

Based on a report compiled by Teresa Salazar de Buckle
Presented to UNIDO - Vienna, February 28 2001

 

 


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